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Frigoboat

Marine Refrigeration Systems

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Installation & Instruction Manual

For Models:

Paris 35F, Capri 50-SSC, K50-SSC, W50F

(Also applicable to any Frigoboat system using Danfoss BD 35 & 50 compressors)

It is important to read this manual thoroughly before installing a Frigoboat system.

Veco NA, LLC

P O Box 3518

Annapolis MD 21403

info@frigoboat.com

Rev 13 – 12/2006

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Chapter 1

Frigoboat systems

A Frigoboat system consists of the following components:

(1) A compressor / condensing unit that is either:

Air cooled - Paris 35F or Capri 50-SSC
Water cooled - W50F (with pump)
Keel cooled - K50-SSC (with keel cooler)

(2) An electronic controller connected to and installed on the compressor

(3) Either a mechanical thermostat for refrigerator, freezer or holding plate, or a Carel digital thermostat/thermometer

(4) A Smart Speed Control (SSC), standard on Capri 50-SSC and K50-SSC systems

(5) An aluminum or stainless steel evaporator plate or holding plate

(6) A water pump, for W50F only

(7) A keel cooler, standard on K50-SSC, optional with Capri 50-SSC

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Chapter 2

Paris 35F and Capri 50-SSC Air cooled

These units are designed to be mounted on a horizontal surface in areas where they will not be susceptible to physical or water damage, but accessible for service. They require good ventilation, preferably expelling the heated air to another location by attaching a flexible duct of not more than 6' in length to the duct ring on the unit. A duct kit is available for the Capri 50-SSC.

If air is required to be drawn into the unit from another area, the fan may be reversed by removing the housing and re-mounting the fan in the opposite orientation. Reversing the fan leads does not make the fan run in reverse and the incorrect polarity will result in the fan not operating.

There should be adequate ventilation to allow cool air to enter the condenser, but not so that the heated expelled air can be drawn back in. The temperature of the air entering the condenser determines the efficiency of the system. Re-circulating the heated air back into the condenser in a sealed or poorly ventilated cabinet will result in poor system performance. Poor system performance will also result from air being drawn in from a heated space, i.e., an engine room.

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Chapter 3

W50F - Water cooled with pump

This unit must be mounted on a horizontal surface in an area where it will not be susceptible to physical or water damage, but accessible for service. Consideration should be given for access to the hose and refrigerant line connections. A mounting kit is supplied with the W50F that includes rubber mounts and steel inserts. The unit may be screwed or bolted down using the supplied white, plastic washers, if desired. If a Bulkhead Bracket (PN E52135) is used, remove the stainless steel mounts from the compressor.

3:1 Raw water pump
The pump supplied by Frigoboat is self-priming and requires a good intake strainer of 120 mesh. Other pumps of similar performance may be used.

After installation, check for leaks and a water flow of at least 1 gal/min. The pump power must be supplied through a 12v relay whose coil is connected to the fan terminals. The fan terminals on the module are limited to a current draw of 0.7 amps and will deliver 12v even if the system is connected to a 24v supply. Full wiring instructions are included with the W50F.

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Chapter 4

K50-SSC - Water cooled with keel cooler

The compressor unit must be mounted on a horizontal surface in an area where it will not be susceptible to physical or water damage, but accessible for service. Consideration must be given to the fact that the compressor must be mounted within 5' of the keel cooler. This dimension cannot be extended.

A mounting kit is supplied with the K50F that includes rubber mounts and steel inserts. The unit may be either screwed or bolted down using the supplied white, plastic washers, if desired. If a Bulkhead Bracket (PN E52135) is used, remove the stainless steel mounts from the compressor.

4:1 Keel cooler
This must be mounted through the hull by drilling a 1 9/16" (40mm) hole (a 1.5" hole may be used, carefully enlarging it, if necessary). Make a dry run(s) without the rubber O-ring and sealant installed, making sure that the keel cooler fits up flush with the hull, chamfering the hole if necessary. The rubber O-ring must then installed and properly seated. Adequate sealant of the correct type must be used. Consult your local marine store if you are uncertain of which sealant to use. A dab of sealant should also be applied to the fore and aft ends of the keel cooler where it meets the hull to secure its orientation.

If you are installing the stud-type of keel cooler (as opposed to the thread-type, which has a large nut as the method of tightening), care should be taken not to over-tighten the nuts on the studs, which could bend the compression bar. If you are installing the thread-type you will need someone to hold the keel cooler while you tighten the nut. The mounting location should be carefully chosen, avoiding areas where lifting slings may be applied or where other damage may occur.

Consideration should be given to the fact that the keel cooler must be below the water-line, and the compressor unit must be mounted within 5' of the keel cooler location. On power boats it may be possible to mount the keel cooler in the section of the transom that is below the waterline. Keep the two tubes from the keel cooler separate and do not insulate them.

Special constraints and working practices apply when installing the keel cooler on a vessel with a cored, metal, or carbon fibre hull. For these applications we suggest you consult a marine professional.

4:2 Grounding and cleaning
Provision is provided for a grounding/bonding wire to be attached. It is very important that the Keel Cooler is electrically connected to the battery negative, with no switch in the circuit between the Keel Cooler connection and the battery negative.

If the Keel Cooler being installed is the type without zincs, it must also be connected to the vessel’s bonding system and a sacrificial zinc anode. This is an important safety precaution and a connection must be made to the battery negative whether the keel cooler has zincs or not.

The keel Cooler should not be painted and must be inspected periodically for corrosion. Clean occasionally with a brush, never with a metal scraper.

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Chapter 5

Danfoss Electronic Controller for Frigoboat systems

The Danfoss Electronic Controller is an integral part of the Danfoss BD compressor system. It transforms direct current power from the vessel’s batteries into alternating current to run the compressor. Never attempt to run the compressor directly from the batteries or other power source.

5:1 Voltage
A supply voltage of either 12 or 24 volts dc is required. The controller will run from either voltage without any special settings or adjustments, switching automatically to 24v mode if the voltage is above 17v.

5:2 Multi-speed compressor
Depending on the system, up to six automatic or user-selectable compressor speeds between 2000 RPM and 3500 RPM are available for maximum system performance at the lowest current draw. The Paris 35F has no speed control, running at 2000 RPM. The W50F has manually adjustable speed capability. The K50-SSC and Capri 50-SSC have automatic speed control via the SSC.

5:3 Safeguards
Protection is provided for the following:

(1) Low voltage. To prevent the batteries from being totally discharged, the compressor will be stopped if the voltage at the terminals on the controller falls below 10.6 volts (23.4 on a 24v system). It will not re-start until the voltage rises above 11.7 volts (24.0 on a 24v system).

(2) High voltage. If the voltage exceeds 17v, the controller stops the compressor and switches into 24v mode, but will not attempt to start the compressor until the voltage reaches 24v.

(3) Compressor non-start. If the compressor does not start, the controller will stop the starting process and attempt a re-start approximately every 45 seconds.

(4) Compressor speed too low. If the compressor speed falls below 1900 RPM the controller will stop the compressor.

(5) Fan (and pump) protection. If the current draw across the fan terminals exceeds 0.7 amps at 12v dc, the compressor will be stopped and a re-start attempted approximately every 45 seconds.

(6) Module overheat. If the heat sink on the controller exceeds a preset temperature, the compressor will be stopped and will be re-started when normal operating temperatures are resumed.

5:4 Alarm Indicator
An LED may be installed across the "+" and "D" terminals of the controller to indicate a failure condition. With the K50-SSC and Capri 50-SSC this is installed on the display panel of the SSC.

Under a fault condition, the compressor will be stopped and an attempted restart will be made approximately every 45 seconds. Under this condition the LCD will blink up to five times every 5 seconds, as follows:

1 Blink: Supply voltage low, below 10.6v on a 12v system, 23.4v on a 24v system
2 Blinks: Excessive load on fan terminals, above 0.7 amps
3 Blinks: Compressor non-start
4 Blinks: Compressor speed below 1900 RPM
5 Blinks: Controller heat-sink temp too high. Re-sets on cool-down
Note 1
After power is applied to the controller there may be a delay of up to 30 seconds before the compressor starts.

Note 2
The electronic controller, although designed for harsh and marine applications, can be damaged by either direct or incidental contact with water and by water flowing down wires attached to the terminals.

When attaching wires to the terminals on the controller, make sure that all wires approach from below the terminal and endeavor to mount the compressor and controller combination in a location that is clear of existing and potential water leaks.

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Chapter 6

Aluminum H-, F- and B-Type Evaporators

6:1 Location
All types of evaporator need to be located as high as possible in the icebox to maintain the correct temperatures, with consideration being given to access to the interior freezing section in the H and B- type. Special attention must be given to the fact that air flow must be allowed to circulate to the rear of the evaporator plate. This includes leaving a gap of approximately 1” at the top of the plate and similar spacing at the bottom. In conjunction with this, it is important that the spacers provided be used to offset the evaporator on all points from the icebox wall.

The F-type of flat evaporators may be carefully bent on a minimum 1.25" radius to follow the shape of the icebox. This is best done by holding a section of suitably padded PVC pipe (with an outside diameter of 2.5" or greater) firmly down on the plate, then carefully bending the section upwards with the palm of your hand. The stainless steel plates need more force to bend and may require the assistance of a second person. This must be done slowly and with great care to avoid excessive kinking of the channels in the evaporator. Never attempt to bend a plate downwards over a pipe as damage may result. The area to be bent should be warmed with a hair dryer or heat gun to approximately 200F before bending to prevent the paint from cracking. There are sections that must not be bent; these are indicated on the specification sheet.

The H- and B-types may be mounted in any position. The F-type must be mounted with the indicator arrows pointing upwards, on a vertical wall with the refrigerant channels running in a horizontal orientation.

6:2 Installation
All evaporators have approximately 9' of copper tubing attached, with dust-plugs in the end fittings that must remain installed until the very last moment when the connections are ready to be made. A 1.5" hole needs be drilled in the wall of the icebox, as high as possible, and through successive bulkheads, as required. Carefully unroll the tubing, feeding it through the holes to the area where the compressor / condenser is located. Some evaporators have sections of aluminum tubing close to the body of the evaporator that must be handled very carefully. Warnings to that effect are attached to the evaporators in question.

Any bends that need to be fashioned in the tubing must be made carefully with as large a radius as possible to avoid kinking. The section of insulation that is free to slide on the tubing should be positioned starting at the point where the tubing exits the icebox. It is neither necessary nor desirable to add more insulation to the tubing as any sweating or ice formation seen on the exposed section of tubing indicates an overcharged condition and needs to be remedied.

Once the evaporator is installed, the exit hole in the box must be sealed with expanding foam, refrigeration putty, or other suitable material. Make sure that any drains are plugged and that there are no other holes or gaps through which warm, moist air can enter the box. Any excess tubing may be carefully rolled up and fastened out of the way in a horizontal orientation.

If the tubing is too short to reach the compressor / condensing unit, pre-charged extensions are available in 3, 6, and 10 foot lengths.

6:3 Mechanical thermostat sensing tube attachment
Check to see how you need to attach the thermostat sensing tube before mounting the evaporator. Instructions are included with the evaporator showing how the last 3" or so of the sensing tube must be bent into a "U" shape, the clamping screw loosened, and the tube inserted under the plastic plate so that it lays in the special grooves of the plate. Finish by tightening the clamping screw.

When using the “Dual Thermostat” one sensing tube from each thermostat is fitted in each groove, with no “U” bend. If necessary, the mounting plate can be removed and installed on the other side of the evaporator. If using the Carel digital thermostat, the sensor mounts on the box wall, not on the evaporator.

If using the Carel digital thermostat, the sensor mounts on the icebox wall, not on the evaporator. Full instructions are included with the Carel thermostat.

6:4 Mounting
H- and B-type evaporator plates can be mounted in any position.

To mount the H-type horizontally, drill four mounting holes in the roof of the icebox. Start two screws in the rear holes. Slide the mounting slots of the evaporator over the screws, then insert and tighten the two front screws. Finish by tightening the two rear screws.

The B-type can be mounted by using the row of holes along the top rear face of the evaporator. There is a Lid Kit (PN E52095) for the 340B evaporator to facilitate horizontal mounting.

The F-type has numerous mounting holes along the top and bottom edges.

Do not cut, drill or attempt to drill holes in any evaporator for any purpose. Holes may be drilled in the base of B-type evaporators, as this is a separate piece of aluminum.

Always use the mounting spacers supplied to protect the tubing and to provide adequate air circulation.

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Chapter 7

Mechanical thermostat for H-, B-, and F-evaporators
(See separate instruction sheet for Carel digital thermostat)

7:1 Refrigerator & Freezer thermostats
There are two different thermostats for different applications. The refrigerator version is mounted in a white housing and is designed to be used where the evaporator is mounted in an icebox that is intended to be kept at refrigerator temperatures. If the evaporator is of the H- or B-type and is correctly sized, the interior portion of these evaporators will be kept at freezer temperatures.

The freezer version is mounted in a blue housing and must be used where the evaporator is mounted in a space that is to be used as a freezer.

If an existing icebox is divided with a barrier, a Spillover Fan/Thermostat Kit (PN E26200) can be used to keep the refrigerator section at the desired temperature. Instructions are included with the kit.

7:2 Mounting
The mechanical thermostat can be mounted either inside the icebox, or in an alternative location that is within the scope of the sensing tube. If the thermostat is mounted inside the box make sure that liquids or condensation cannot flow down the shaft and into the mechanism by positioning the hosing so that the shaft exits either on the bottom or the side. The capillary tube controls the thermostat by the pressure of the gas it contains and must not be kinked, broken, or cut. Any excess tubing may be carefully coiled up and secured out of the way to avoid damage.

When securing the sensing tube, make sure that it only makes contact with the evaporator at the point where it is attached under the plastic mounting plate and that it does not touch any part of the aluminum or copper tubing. If necessary, the tube can be protected with small-bore plastic tubing, either by sliding it on prior to attaching the tube to the evaporator or by slitting it along its length and feeding it over the sensing tube. Run the cable together with the copper lines to the compressor /condensing unit. Care must be taken to ensure that the sensing tube does not come into contact with any electrical component either inside or outside the icebox. There is an insulating cover over the most exposed wire terminal and connector inside the plastic thermostat housing. An inspection must be made before mounting, to make sure that the entire terminal and connector is covered and that no metal parts are exposed. It must be confirmed, before mounting the thermostat, that the capillary tube is not in contact with any wire terminal, connector, or bare wire. If the sensing tube needs to be bent within the confines of the plastic thermostat housing, it must be done with great care, heeding the warnings above.

7:3 Operation
The thermostat knob is marked from 0 to 7 with 7 being the coldest setting. From this position the knob can be rotated counter-clockwise to setting 0, which is the warmest. On initial system start-up, it is recommended that you set the thermostat to number 4, letting the system run through a few cycles while monitoring box temperature before any adjustments are made. Once the right setting is found for your application there should be no need for the thermostat to be adjusted again.

The system must not be turned off and on from the thermostat. To turn the system off and on, use a panel-mounted breaker or install a switch in line with the power supply.

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Chapter 8

Stainless Steel Holding Plate Evaporator

8:1 Location
The holding plate must be mounted vertically, as high as possible in the icebox.

8:2 Installation
The 9' copper tubing set is supplied separate from the holding plate and has dust plugs installed in the fittings at each end that must remain in place until the fittings are ready to be joined together. A 1.5" hole needs to be drilled through the wall of the icebox, as high as possible, and through successive bulkheads, if necessary. Carefully unroll the tubing, feeding it through the holes to where the compressor /condenser is located. It does not matter which end goes where. Any bends that need to be fashioned in the tubing should be made with great care and with as large a radius as possible to avoid kinking.

The section of insulation that is free to slide on the tubing should be positioned so it covers the tubing starting at the point where it exits from the icebox.

Once the holding plate is installed, this exit hole must be sealed with expanding foam, refrigeration putty, or other suitable material. Any excess tubing may be carefully rolled up and fastened out of the way in a horizontal orientation. If the tubing is too short to reach the compressor / condensing unit, pre-charged extensions are available in 3, 6, and 10 foot lengths.

8:3 Mounting
Use the template and mounting bracket provided with the plate.

8:4 Thermostat
The mechanical thermostat can be mounted either inside the icebox or in an alternative location that is within the scope of the sensing tube. This capillary tube has a bulb on the end and this must be firmly attached to the holding plate by the clamp provided on any side except for the top. The sensing tube controls the thermostat by the pressure of the gas it contains and must not be kinked, broken, or cut. Any excess tubing may be carefully coiled up out of the way and secured to avoid damage.

8:5 Operation
The thermostat has an adjustment dial calibrated in degrees Celsius. This must be set at -10.

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Chapter 9

Quick Connect Refrigerant Fittings

Each component of a Frigoboat system is fitted with one male and one female proprietary Quick Connect fitting that connects to a corresponding fitting on other components of the system. The keel cooler systems are comprised of three components, so special attention must be given to the installation diagram supplied with each individual part. The tubes are color coded for convenience. All other air and water cooled systems have only two components, therefore they cannot be connected incorrectly.

The individual items are pre-charged with the correct amount of refrigerant at the factory. When the Quick Connect fittings are joined together, they allow the refrigerant to flow through the system without leaking out into the atmosphere. If needed, they can be uncoupled without loss of refrigerant in order to re-run refrigerant lines, upgrade components or enable a faulty component to be removed and replaced. When they are uncoupled, immediately secure duct plugs, (removed when originally installed and kept in a safe place) into the exposed female/male fittings.

Note
Never run the compressor unless all components of the system are connected together.

9:1 Connecting the Quick Connect fittings
Leave the dust plugs installed until the very last moment when you are ready to connect the system together. Once the dust caps have been removed, it is imperative that the now exposed components and surfaces be kept free of dust, dirt, construction debris, etc. After you have removed the plugs, keep them in a safe place in case you need to remove or replace a component later.

Push the male and female fittings together and then carefully rotate the collar on the female fitting until it starts to thread on the male end, making sure that the fitting is not cross-threaded and the male end does not rotate. Do not use any thread sealant or tape. Continue making up the collar of the female end, either by hand or with a 15/16" wrench, while preventing the male end from rotating by restraining it with a 13/16" wrench. It is most important not to let the male end rotate at all during this whole process. Tighten the collar until it completely covers the threads on the male fitting. It is not necessary to use excessive force as the seal that stops the refrigerant from escaping is made with an O-ring and does not depend on the fitting being wrenched down hard. If there is a continuous hiss after the connection has been completed, disconnect the fitting and check that the O-ring has not been damaged. If it has, carefully replace it with one of the spares provided and re-make the fitting.


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Chapter 9

Electrical

10:1 Power supply

The power supply to the electronic controller must given particular attention to prevent nuisance problems and compressor non-operation, shutdown, or failure. All electrical connections should be either soldered or made with good quality crimpers and crimp connectors of the correct size and type. All switches, breakers, and connections must be in good condition and be designed and constructed for marine use. It is suggested that during the initial start-up the supply voltage be monitored at the terminals on the controller before, during, and after the compressor starts, to ensure that the voltage stays steady and does not fall appreciably. This test should be conducted with as many other dc loads turned on as is practical.

10:2 Wire size

Consult ABYC tables for 3% volt drop. Never use less than 10 gauge wire.

10:3 Overload protection

Use either a breaker or fast-blow fuse with 15 amp rating for a 12v supply, or 7.5 amp for 24v.

10:4 Connections, power

Connect the power supply to the controller to the top two terminals, observing the correct polarity. Reversing the polarity at the terminals will prevent the compressor from running, but will not harm the system.

10:5 Connections, thermostat

Connect the two slip-on connectors from the thermostat to the corresponding terminals on the controller, color and polarity are not important. One connector must go on the C-terminal, the other to the T-terminal.

On the W50F there is a speed selector board mounted on the lower terminals of the controller. This must be set to a speed specified for the system and size of evaporator, as outlined below.

See separate instructions for systems using the Smart Speed Control (SSC) and the Carel thermostat.

  • Paris

This system has no speed selection capability. The thermostat must be connected to terminals C and T on the controller.

  • W50F

The thermostat must be connected with one wire to the T-terminal on the speed selection board of the controller, the other to the vacant terminal of the high temperature cut-out on the condensing coil. The rotary speed selector should be set to a speed suggested in the table below. Check that the voltage selector is set to the appropriate supply voltage.

 Evaporator type Compressor speed, refrigerator Compressor speed, freezer
80F 2000 -------------
130H / 130F 2500 3500
160H / 160F/ 180F-SS 2500 3500
200F/ 250B 3000 3500
340B/ 380F-SS 3500 3500

10:6 Connections, Fan

The wires from the fan on the Capri 50 and Paris 35 must be connected to the terminals marked F (Black or Blue), and C (Red). If the wires are reversed the fan will not run. The K50F and W50F models have a small oil cooler fan installed. On the W50F extra terminals are provided for the pump relay. Full instructions are included with the W50F.

10:7 Connections, Pump

The W50F model uses a 12v pump that must be connected through a relay (PN E251002) that is activated from the fan terminals on the controller. If two or three W50F units are to share one pump, a Pump Interface (PN E51385) should be used. Full wiring instructions are included with the Pump Interface.

It is important to remember that the output voltage at the fan terminals will be 12v even if the supply to the controller is 24v, so a relay with a 12v coil must always be used.

The W50F has a temperature sensor on the water cooled heat exchanger that is connected in series with the thermostat and will stop the system if the cooling water flow is insufficient. Full wiring instructions are included with the system.

 

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Chapter 11

Troubleshooting Guide

Note

 

11:1 Compressor not running, no start attempt

Probable cause

Action

1

Supply voltage too low

Check voltage with a multi-meter at the terminals on the controller. This must be 11.7v or more for a 12v supply, 24v or more for a 24v supply. Inspect power supply, ground connections and components for integrity. Check wire sizing. Charge batteries, if necessary.

2

Supply voltage too high

If a 12v supply is faulty and delivers over 17v, the compressor will not run. If it is over 24v, it will assume that it is a 24v supply and act accordingly.

3

Polarity incorrect

Check that the polarity is correct at the controller.

4

Faulty thermostat

Remove the thermostat wires and bridge the terminals that they were on. If the system then runs, make the connection permanent and control the system manually from the breaker on your supply panel. Replace thermostat as soon as possible.

5

Thermostat wired incorrectly, or faulty connections

Refer to the installation instructions to confirm that connections are as they should be. Ensure that the thermostat connectors are pushed firmly on to the terminals on the Controller.

6

Multi-speed board incorrectly installed (if fitted)

Check to make sure that the two connectors at the rear of the multi-speed board are attached to the C and T terminals of the controller.

7

Multi-speed board faulty (if fitted)

Remove board and jumper terminals C and T on the controller. Note: If the thermostat wires are connected directly to C and T on the controller, the compressor will run at its slowest speed.

8

Compressor plug not connected

Disconnect the controller by removing the retaining screw. Then ensure that the 3-pin plug is seated firmly on the pins of the compressor.

9

Faulty compressor

Remove the controller as above, unplug from the compressor. Check that ohm readings are the same across all terminals of the compressor. Do not attempt to connect power directly to compressor.

10

Heat sink overheated

Allow components to cool down before attempting re-start.

11

Compressor too cold

If compressor is below freezing temperature, allow to warm up before attempting re-start.

11:2 Compressor attempts to start, or starts then stops soon after.

 

 

 

Probable cause

Action

1

Faulty or inadequate power supply

Monitor the supply voltage at the power terminals on the controller before, during, and after start attempts to ensure that it does not fall below threshold levels. If it does, check power supply, ground connections and components for integrity. Check for correct wire sizing. Charge batteries, if necessary.

2

Faulty fan or pump relay or unauthorized component installed

Remove connectors from F and + terminals on controller and attempt re-start. Maximum current draw on these terminals is limited to 0.7 amps at 12v.

3

Quick Connect fittings not made

Check that all refrigerant fittings are connected together properly.

 

 

11:3 System runs, box temperature too high.

 

 

Probable cause

Action

1

Thermostat setting

Rotate mechanical thermostat knob clockwise to a higher number or adjust set point on Carel model.

2

Speed setting

Check that thermostat leads are connected to the speed setting recommended for the installed evaporator and for its intended use, i.e. refrigerator or freezer.

3

Thermostat type

If you are planning to convert your icebox into a freezer, or into a spillover system, a freezer thermostat (blue housing) must be used.

4

Evaporator type and size

If the evaporator has an even coating of frost, the thermostat is set on 7, and the system is not cycling, the evaporator may be too small. Either replace the evaporator with a larger model, add insulation to the bottom of the box to reduce volume, or re-locate the evaporator lower in the box. The latter will probably cause the temperature at the top of the box to be above acceptable levels.

5

Excessive frost build-up

If an excessive layer of frost is allowed to build up on the evaporator it will act as an insulator and adversely affect box temperatures. Defrost system by interrupting power supply at the breaker panel. Restore power when evaporator is free of frost. Never use any implement in an attempt to loosen the frost on the aluminum evaporator. Check that all drains are blocked and there are no other openings or gaps that will allow air to enter or leak from the box.

6

Incorrect refrigerant charge

If, after the compressor has been running for an appreciable length of time, the evaporator surface does not have an even coating of frost, or it is only cold and sweating to the touch, the system may be low on refrigerant or overcharged. Call Veco NA for advice or go to frigoboat.com "Technical Assistance".

7

Drain left unplugged

If your icebox is equipped with a drain in the bottom of the box, it is suggested that you block it off to prevent heat loss. The drain should only be used if you revert to melting ice, or after a major clean-up.

8

Tubing hole left unplugged

The hole that was drilled to allow the evaporator’s copper tubes to pass through the box’s side during installation must be sealed, as well as all other openings or gaps.


11:4 System runs, box temperature too low.    

 

Probable cause

Action

1

Thermostat setting

Rotate mechanical thermostat knob to a lower number or adjust-set point on Carel model.

2

Thermostat type

Check that you are using a refrigerator thermostat (white housing) for a refrigerator application.

3

Faulty thermostat

If system is running continuously and box temperatures are too low with thermostat set on the lowest number, first check for correct thermostat connections at the controller, then remove one connection. If compressor stops, turn off breaker, replace connection, and then control system manually from the breaker until the thermostat can be replaced.

4

Holding plate over-sized

If you are using a holding plate evaporator that is over-sized for the application, it will absorb more heat than enters the box through the insulation, and therefore lowers the temperature. Experiment by covering some of the plate surface with insulating material until you achieve correct box temperatures. This method will also increase hold-over times.

5

Poor spillover system construction

If you are running the evaporator as a freezer and cooling an adjoining refrigerator compartment with spillover air, there must be an adequate thermal barrier between the two. It also must be completely sealed down the sides and along the bottom to prevent unwanted air-flow. Temperatures in the refrigerator side should be controlled either with trial-and-error convection holes, or a thermostatically controlled fan, (Spillover Fan/Thermostat Kit, PN E26200). Two apertures are necessary, one high and one mid-height for adequate air circulation.


11:5 Excessive frost build-up

 

Note

This is the result of moist air being allowed to enter the box. Problems are compounded when cold, dense air leaks from the lower area of the box through an open drain or door seal and is replaced by warm, humid air being drawn in elsewhere.

Probable cause

Action

1

Drains and holes not plugged

Make sure all drains and holes in the floor and walls of the box are sealed.

2

Circulating fan

If a small fan is used to circulate air in the box, make sure that the cold air is not being blown towards and out of a door/lid seal. This could force cold air out of the box and set up a circulation pattern if the seals are leaking

2

Poor or damaged door/lid seals

Check seals and replace if necessary. A good seal will grip a $1 bill when inserted between the seal and door/lid when closed. A front opening door/top opening lid combination with poor seals is likely to result in excessive frost build-up on the evaporator and cause extended run times.

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Limited Warranty Policy

Veco NA, LLC (Company) warrants that if any part of a new system that includes the accompanying product proves to be defective to the original user in material or workmanship within the limits of the schedule below, the company will, at the company's option, either replace or repair that part without charge.

Compressor (excluding Controller): 5 years from date of purchase
Electronic components: 2 years from date of purchase
Mechanical components: 1 year from date of purchase

Note :

- Items sold singly, i.e. not as part of a complete system, carry a one year warranty only.
- Items replaced or repaired under warranty are covered only for the remainder of the term of the original warranty.

This warranty does not cover:

-- Any field labor or other costs for inspection, testing, removal, transportation, or installation of any component unless pre-authorized by the Company and issuance of a Work Order number

-- Damage, failure, or malfunction due to, or arising from, improper or faulty installation and/or application, and from failing to follow the guidelines included with the equipment and in the Installation & Instruction Manual.

-- Any component of a system that is not comprised solely of Frigoboat supplied refrigeration parts.

-- Damage, failure, or malfunction resulting from accident, misuse, abuse, neglect, mishandling, alteration, modification, Acts of God, or service by personnel other than those pre-authorized by the Company.

-- Damage, failure, or malfunction resulting from inadequate or faulty power supply to the system, or improper, faulty, or unsafe vessel wiring.

No responsibility is assumed for any special, incidental, or consequential damages.

Note: Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages so the above exclusion or limitation may not apply.

In the event of a component failure or malfunction in North America or the Caribbean, please contact Veco NA, LLC at 301.352.6962. If requested, return faulty part, freight pre-paid, together with proof of purchase. No returns will be accepted without prior authorization and the issuance of an RMA number by Veco NA. Damage due to shipping is not covered in this warranty and so it is suggested that you insure the shipment. If the part(s) is found to be defective due to faulty materials or workmanship, it will be repaired or replaced free of charge and returned freight pre-paid.

If warranty service is required in areas other than North America and the Caribbean, please visit the manufacturer’s web site www.veco.net.

 


Chapter 1

The Frigomatic 35F series

Chapter 2

AV35F & AH35F

Chapter 3

Paris, Roma, Madrid

Chapter 4

Capri

Chapter 5

W35F - Water cooled with pump

Chapter 6

K35F - Water cooled with keel cooler

Chapter 7

Electronic Control Module for Frigomatic series.

Chapter 8

Aluminum H, F, & B Type Evaporators

Chapter 9

Thermostat for AH, AB, & AF evaporators

Chapter 10

Stainless Steel Holding Plate Evaporator

Chapter 11

Quick Connect Refrigerant Fittings

Chapter 12

Electrical

Chapter 13

Troubleshooting Guide